78. Toshiba DC Jack Repair

 Computer Repair Lessons: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 

Toshiba laptops have two types of DC Jack designs.  One of these designs has a separate DC Jack that is fixed to the laptop side in plastic and is connected to the motherboard with a wire. This design has its disadvantages because the DC Jack frequently holds the plastic brakes and the jack becomes loose or even slides inside the laptop and disappears inside.


The problem with this is that usually there are big forces applied to the jack that come through to the plug from the power cable. If the jack is pushed too hard to the side, the plastic breaks or deforms in some way.

The plastic deforms in a way that the jack can slide out of the encasing. We usually use an epoxy to glue the DC Jack in. Other types of glue that can handle plastics such as Impact Glue or others can also be used.

The other type of design is when the DC Jack is soldered on the motherboard. This design is usually used on older Toshiba laptops.

The repair for this is similar to all DC Jack repairs. The central pin is + and the outer pins are - . The easiest way to de-solder this is to use a de-soldering gun such as Hakko 808. There is a guide on this site as to how to use the Hakko 808 de-soldering gun.

The de-soldering pump and powerful soldering iron can also be used to de-solder the jack. But, this is not so easy and will take some time to learn. But, it is possible to de-solder using this technique, but not as fast as using the Hakko gun.

The other way is to literally destroy the DC Jack using cutters. There are small cutters that can cut pins and separate the DC Jack from the motherboard. When cutting, pay  attention to the motherboard as the pins, if pulled too hard, will destroy the copper pads.
Usually, the DC Jack has 5 pins. The four pins that are – are located outside and in the DC Jack casing. One way to do this is to cut the casing pins near the motherboard. The other way is to cut the casing on the DC jack top and then cut the central pin and remove the plastic part. This makes de-soldering the outer casing bits easy.

There are a lot of DC Jack types and a lot of pin layouts. It is almost impossible to make a description that suits all of them. It is important to use common sense and make correct decisions depending on the design configuration.

How to test the DC Jack. Disassemble the laptop and connect the multimeter probes to the motherboard next to the DC Jack. Connect the power adaptor. The multimeter should show 19 V. Try to move the DC Jack to the side. If the reading starts to change, it means the pins need to be re-soldered. This tends to happen when the power adaptor plug becomes damaged. Double check the plug visually. If there is physical damage to the plug, it can usually be seen. The plug can also be tested with a multimeter.


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